Shalom, kibbutzniks!

I am here to tell you about my recent trip to Israel for Tiny Furniture’s international premiere at the Jerusalem Film Festival. I undertook this life-changing journey with my BFF since birth, fellow DDD Isabel Bramlette Halley.
My mom is a nonpracticing Jew and my dad is an even less practicing Protestant but according to us Jews, a Jewish mom makes a Jewish baby. I went to Hebrew school for two weeks but didn’t get the lead role in the class play and dropped out. I consider myself spiritual but not religious, and I never had any particular interest in visiting Israel. But Isabel has long dreamed of it, and we haven’t traveled internationally since an ill-fated Ecuadorian vacation in our tenth year of life, so plans were made. And I’m happy to report this trip was much more successful than our last (when I sat at the foot of an Andean foothill screaming and crying at the prospect of a hike, then slapped Isabel for owning a cooler Gap baby-tee than I did.)
The journey to J-town started out with a frantic scramble, as I realized on the morning of July 7th that our flight departed that evening rather than the next. Isabel took my oversight in stride and showed up ready to move.

We slept peacefully through the long flight (is it a coincidence that peaceful and prescription start with the same letter?) and arrived in Tel Aviv the next morning, groggy and anxious about facing customs. All I will say is that the people ushering you in and out of Israel are tough cookies.

A car waited to take us to the holy city. We could see the border of Palestine as we drove toward Jerusalem.

I sent a male friend this photo with the caption “this is where they send boys who don’t use condoms” and I immediately regretted it. You know why? Because there are some times when you know nothing and it’s better to just shut the fuck up. Among other things, this trip really taught me that not everything requires a quip. Especially not serious political unrest that you haven’t read multiple books about.
Isabel was very excited when we reached our hotel.

We looked out onto the beautiful swimming pool. I emailed this pic to friends also, and Kyle pointed out the shadow of a giant Godzilla cock looming.

Isabel ripped the guidebook a new one, making sure we saw all of Jerusalem’s most historic sites. I feel ignorant, because I didn’t realize that this city, roughly the size of Torrington Connecticut, is the birthplace of all three monotheistic world religions– Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. And that, as my dad would say, is some powerful shit.
On our first morning in Jerusalem we hit the Wailing, AKA Western, Wall, where I wished a wish for nearly everyone I know:

They provided disposable schmattas for our legs so as not to offend (my tats didn’t have too many supporters either.) I felt a real surge of power when I touched the wall and found the experience of placing my written wishes between its cracks very moving.
We touched the rock of Golgotha, which is supposedly were Jesus’ cross stood, then kissed the ground on top of [what they say are] Jesus’ bones. I didn’t really feel qualified– some women were crying and shaking while they did it– but I’m also sure Jesus himself was a kind and intelligent man and those are the kind of men I aim to kiss.
The Dome of the Rock:

The inside of this mosque is not open to the public, so Isabel covered her head in an attempt to seem Muslim enough to be let in. She meant no harm. Rather, she was moved by the aged architecture. Still, it was vaguely reminiscent of AgNess’ attempt to infiltrate Beatrice Inn:
At the Virgin Mary’s tomb, Episcopalian Isabel was quite possessed by prayer. She really had no idea I was taking this photo. Beatific, no?

We wandered to and fro inside the walls of the old city.

A highlight was enjoying a delicious meal in the Arab quarter, where Isabel said the hummus could only be described as “effervescent.” Makes the hummus I’ve fooled around with in NYC look like insulation on crackers.


I’ll have the hummous with hummous!
We purchased silver goods, including thugging nameplates for all the Matisyahus in my life.

Isabel’s haggling abilities are unparalleled. She bargained a man so low on a little wooden lute that she simply had to purchase it, even though she’d already decided it was stupid.
We also invested in some style yarmulkes (see the sign? Newest models.)

Below is a shot of something I really regret not having purchased. If you know me, then you already know how much I love fashion Engrish, culture mashups, and bad fakes.

At the time I thought “why would I need to drop 30 sheckels on this? I just need a good solid iphone pic” but now, in the light of USA today, I’d like nothing more than to go home with someone for the first time, remove my turtleneck and be rocking this padded wonder.
Still, I was able to add to my gag tee collection:

We bought one for each Delusional Diva, including the sorely missed J’Avillez.
I screened Tiny Furniture twice (subtitled in Hebrew!) and the Israeli people were very kind about it but they didn’t necessarily think it was a comedy. Rather, they saw a vaguely tragic film about a lost girl with an absent mother and serious self-esteem issues. A group of Jerusalem-based psychotherapists waited after the second screening to chat, and when I informed them I’d been in therapy since the age of seven one said “yes, I can tell.” A mix of pride and shame resulted. It should also be noted that I referred to myself as a “script Nazi” in the Q & A then immediately slapped a hand over my mouth. The audience laughed mercifully. Perhaps they could feel the radiant heat of my good intentions?
On Shabbat we enlisted a spirited man named Zachary to drive us to the Dead Sea. Zachary is Muslim, so it wasn’t a biggie for him to take us on this day of rest. On the way, we stopped to take in the view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives.

Doesn’t this picture make Isabel look like an actress-cum-diplomat who is real concerned about the political situation over there? Zachary is her cultural attache and general counsel, and this is a feature for French Vogue.
Our next pre-sea stop was in front of this camel. Isabel paid 15 shekels to mount him and have the Ishtar moment of our dreams.

Chuck Clarke: You mean you bought a camel?
Lyle Rogers: No, I didn’t really buy it. They SOLD it to me!
Lyle Rogers: Oh no. I think that something went wrong and now I own a blind camel. A blind camel!

Camel Seller’s Translator: He says he will sell you a blind camel. He says he also knows of a camel with a crippled leg and no teeth. Would you like a dead camel?

Shirra Assel: The birds in the desert eat only flesh, and there is no wind.
The Dead Sea is not an actual sea, and it must be the saltiest water in
the world. It’s the lowest point in the world, and that’s a fact (!?) You get in and immediately feel like you’re flying because you float so easily, like a cork just bobbing along. So peaceful. Until you get some in your eyes. The burning! The pain! I had to wipe my eyes with Isabel’s muddy hair! They also don’t warn you (but I am a friend, so I will) that your feminine sections will sting too. They just will.
Isabel and I had the biggest laugh riot when looking for the mud you’re meant to smear your body with. At first we could only find sand, and figured that was as good as it would get. Then suddenly my foot slipped into a pocket of the ooey gooeyest mud you’ve ever felt in your life. We were elated. “Mud! Mud! My name is mud!” we screamed. “This is the nation’s top mud! We should have brought an extra suitcase… Just for mud!”
As we lay smeared in the aforementioned mud these boys who were clearly under 18 paddled up and plopped onto the beach to “flirt.” Isabel told them her name was Zala, which they informed us is the name of a chain store. I guess it was sort of like saying “hey, I’m Talbot’s” in an attempt to hide your true identity.
Side-note: someone told me that in Hebrew, Lena means: “to take shelter for the night” or “to lie somewhere for the night” or maybe “to sleep in a strange
place with someone you don’t know. For the night.”
But no wonder these pre-teens wanted to chat with us! Look how porny this all is:


Besides having scat-porn undertones, it was a deeply soothing experience. We drove back to the city in a happy hush, sipping Coca Lite and smoking cigarettes (something I only really do in the desert, where it makes sense. My favorite vacation quote from Isabel came on our guided tour of the old city, just after she’d lit a cigarette, when we were suddenly ordered to climb a blazin’ hot hill. “Wow, I really picked the wrong time to burn one down.”)
Speaking of blazin’ hot, our next stop was Tel Aviv, where we spent two nights before returning to the Jew S of A (that was right off the dome and probably doesn’t work. Maybe I’ll remove it later.)
Have you noticed that a lot of clubwear stores in Soho have signs that say, like, NIGHTFLOWER BOUTIQUE: NEW YORK, PARIS, MILAN, MOSCOW, TEL AVIV…? I could hear the club trax blasting from thirty miles away. I was ready to have a DJ save my life.
But our friend and hostess Shir Weinberg was decidedly more low-key, instead taking us to tasty cafes, tasteful shops, and back-alley bars where Tel Avivians with rat tails and nerd glasses made us feel like we’d never left college (only everyone at college had learned Hebrew.) Shir was an ideal hostess, as she is currently creating an iPhone app guide to Tel Aviv and she looks like she blinked right out of a French new wave film.

Above, Isabel and Shir express their sentiments for each other in front of a piece of street art.
We also enjoyed a meaty dinner at NG with my Sundance Labs friend Talya Lavie:

Talya’s film are wise, smart, and wickedly funny, just like she is.
We arrived at the airport the next morning vaguely delirious and giggled our way through the security check, which is not really a giggly affair. Isabel played a pretty fantastic prank on me though. When our security officer, a beautiful 20 something called Meital, brought Isabel into a room for a “private check” ‘Bel emerged stone faced and whispered “enjoy what’s about to happen to you. They’re going to take down your pants. And your underwear. And then they’re going to search you.” I was shaking as I followed Meital into the private room. She seemed great, but still… That sounded awful.
But when I reached the room, allz I had to do was step through a metal detector.
I returned triumphant: “joke’s on you, Isabel! Guess you must have looked a little more suspicious, you Episcopalian! Because I got to keep my pants on. Shazam!” Isable burst into hysterical laughter, as did the male security guard inspecting her dirty laundry. I’d been had.
I’d been had, and I’d had a thought-provoking, spiritually rewarding, and raucously fun journey to the Middle East. As I tweeted mid-trip, if seeing these Bedouins and this desert and these holy spots was the only thing that Tiny Furniture had ever made possible, dayenu (it would have been enough.)
Thanks to all. But really, how are you!?
With great admiration,
Lena
























































































